Pearls are as variable as diamonds -- no two are exactly alike. Harvested and worn for more than 4,000 years, pearls have been referred to as the Queen of Gems because the pearl was the first gem to be discovered. Throughout history, the pearl has been one of the most highly prized and sought-after gems, a devotion that gave rise to countless religious and mythological references in cultures from the earliest times.

• In Persian mythology, they are called "the tears of the gods."
• The ancient Egyptians prized pearls so much they chose to be buried with them.
• In ancient Rome, pearls were considered the ultimate symbol of wealth and social standing.
• During the Dark Ages, gallant knights often wore pearls onto the battlefield because they believed that the magic possessed by the lustrous gems would protect them from harm.
• In some Muslim legends, the pearl is God's first act of creation.

As early as the 13th century, the Chinese were implanting tiny medallion-like Buddhas inside oysters to be encased in mother-of-pearl (nacre) and worn as amulets.

There are three types of pearls - natural, cultured and simulated - which are judged by their luster, absence of blemishes, color, size and shape (round, irregular, baroque, pear, drop or button). Simulated pearls are man made and are often used in costume jewelry.

Natural pearls are produced - without any intervention by man - by certain types of mollusks (oysters and clams) found in a number of both salt and fresh water sources including areas of the Pacific Ocean, the South Sea Islands and the Persian Gulf. Natural pearls are extremely rare and therefore, generally more costly than cultured pearls.

Cultured pearls - the type carried in our stores - have almost completely replaced the natural variety on the market since the process was first discovered in the early 1900s. Perfected in Japan by Kokichi Mikimoto just prior to World War II, cultured-pearl farming yields pearls that are also produced by mollusks but their production is scientifically controlled. The process begins with the insertion of a mother-of-pearl bead inside the living tissue of the mollusk, which coats the bead with nacre, producing a cultured pearl within one to three years (depending on seasonal conditions and water temperatures). The advent of pearl cultivation has made pearls more affordable and thus more available to consumers. Cultured pearls come in a wide range of values.

Qualities Of Cultured Pearls

Luster and orient. Luster is the sharpness and intensity of reflections on the pearl's surface, and orient is the iridescent colors one sees within the pearl. The higher the luster and orient, the more valuable the pearl.

Color. Describes both the main color (usually white, black or yellow) and the undertone (often pink, rose, or even green.) Pearls can also be dyed any shade to meet personal preference.

Cleanliness. Describes how many imperfections are found on the surface of the pearl. Some imperfections are expected on all pearls, natural or cultured, but the fewer and less noticeable they are, the more valuable the pearl.

Shape. In general, spherical pearls are the most prized. However, it is common to find small imperfections of shape, which can be desirable as long as they are symmetrical. For example, teardrop-shaped pearls are often used in earrings and pendants.

Size. Cultured pearls are sold by diameter, measured in millimeters. In general, the larger the size, the more costly the cultured pearl.

Well-matched cultured pearls used in jewelry items refer to pearls that are essentially the same size, color, shape and luster in a given piece, like earrings or a necklace. In general, the closer the match, the higher the cost. If cost is a factor, you may want to consider, for example, a graduated strand of cultured pearls (range of sizes) versus a straight strand (all one size), or colored cultured pearls versus traditional white.

Whether purchased as a June birthstone or for a 3rd wedding anniversary, the cultured pearl still takes center stage in jewelry fashion. The traditional white of the Akoya cultured pearls are now joined by Tahitian cultured pearls in black and gray, golden and cream cultured pearls from Indonesia, Australia and the Philippines, and purple and orange freshwater cultured pearls from China. Available in a variety of settings from strands and earrings to pendants, rings and brooches, cultured pearls appear in a wide selection of jewelry styles. While diamonds and cultured pearls together remain a classic, the combination of cultured pearls with colored gemstones creates a fashion-forward look that is becoming more popular.

To care for your cultured pearls, avoid using chemical or alcohol cleaners, nail polish, abrasives, solvents, and polish removers while wearing them. Soft gems like pearls should never be put in an ultrasonic cleaner. Instead, wash your cultured pearls in very mild, soapy water.

Before storing your cultured pearls, wipe them with a soft, damp cloth to ensure that they remain free from any harmful buildup of these compounds. Easily scratched if bumped by other jewelry, cultured pearls are best stored in a soft cloth pouch or in a separate, lined jewelry box.

If you wear your cultured pearl strand several times a week, consider having your jeweler re-string it once a year to prevent strand breakage. Experts advise using silk or nylon thread to re-string pearls, with a knot between each pearl. Should your strand break, replace the entire cord. If the pearls are in graduated sizes, try to keep them on the old cord to maintain the same sequence until they are re-strung.